Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.
This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.
“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small place achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.
However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.
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Dr. Matthew Thomas Jr.
Dr. Matthew Thomas Jr.
Dr. Matthew Thomas Jr.
Dr. Matthew Thomas Jr.
Dr. Matthew Thomas Jr.